In this project we will be painting the case High Gloss Black with a 2 stage paint system, same as a sports car !
the Blue is a fiberglass filler that will fill any grains or imperfections in the wood.
More filler and feathering until the surface is like Glass literally.
All panels must be done, if you want that Glass look that sets our work above the standard
Then The entire case has to be sealed and primed.
The inside must be finished down far enough that nothing will show unfinished around the cheek blocks.
Meet the donor ... A C3 thats not so great cosmically But Plays and sounds great.
Here the 3 hinges for the music rack have been removed from the base and I am lifting it off the console.
Before removing the music rack base the power switch's must be removed.
2 nuts on the barrel of the switch's and 4 small screw's to remove the start & run plate.
then 4 screws on the music rack base and it will lift up, but you can't remove it until you remove 2 screw's in the plate behind the start & run switch's, from the grommet plate for the wires that go to the switches.
here you can see the plate with the power wires grommet... And the music rack base is removed.
Next remove the 4 large bolts under the keyboard shelf. They hold the manuals down.
Remove the 2 black oval head bolts next to the white tabs on the right and left side of the top trim plate.
They hold the upper and lower manuals together.
Now you can lift the manuals up and remove the screws for the cheek blocks.
2 screw for each cheek block.
Here we see the cheek blocks removed. and it is best at this time to make any repairs like broken keys, felts, key combs and other things now, before its in the new case.
It will help prevent you from scratching the new case.
If you dont want to save the old case, it will make the job easier by not having to unsolder the generator wires. the object is to slide the key manuals, generator and pedal contact box out the front of the old case into the back of the new case in one piece..... So knock the board out thats in front of the generator.
Also the front rail (board in front of the lower manual) needs to be removed. cut 3/4 way through on each side to cut the mortise and it will come right out.
Now before the guts can slide out in one peace. Other Parts must be removed and some modifications made.
Number and remove the wires from the Preamp !
Take out the 4 screws from the base.
Remove the spring from the volume pedal rod.
remove the screw from the volume pedal rod. and remove the screw from the rod down by the pedal. Then remove the expression pedal board 4 screws with 1 being under the pedal its self.Then remove the volume pedal (4 screws from bottom)
Now you can lift out the preamp !
Well its a good time to grab a coffee..but the case is sure looking empty and we have only un-soldered 15 wires.
We want the generator to lift and slide with the manuals..so we have removed the old hanger bracket and screwed in 2 temporary "L" brackets to hang the rear springs on...
For the front springs we unscrewed existing screws to install 2 more temporary "L" brackets to hang the springs on.
NOW IT HANGS FROM THE MANUALS !
The temporary brackets here (one on each side) will help us lift out and slide the guts into the new case
With the pedal contact box pulled forward to keep the wire out of the way of the saw in the next step...its a good time to clean up any rust or replace the felts.
Make sure the wire are out of the way underneath and saw out a pie shaped pieceto open the hole for the pedal wire to come out.
stay about a 1/16th away from the hole and break out the section to be removed.
WE WILL BE ADDING THE REST OF THE CONTENT TO THIS FOLDER SOON !